Abstract
The studies were performed to investigate the optimum conditions for tannic processing of silk by use Chinese Gallotannin and synthesized tannic acid, which are aimed at weighting, dyeing and physical properties of tannin treated silk. 1. It was reasonable that the concentration of tannin solution is 30 grams per liter of Chinese Gallotannin, 15 grams per liter of tannic acid for the efficient weighting of processed silk. The temperature and time for tannin treatment was optimum at 80$^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and the acidity of tannin solution at pH 2 to 3. 2. In dyeing the tannintreated silk by Acid dye Orange II, the temperature and time was reasonable at 60$^{\circ}C$, 90 minutes to control the desorption of tannin components weighted onto silk. 3. The colour differences ($\Delta$E) of dyed silk fabric by soaping could be remarkably narrowed by tannin treatment, resulting in improving the washing fastness of tannin treated silk by two grades more than that of untreated one. 4. The light fastness of tannin treated silk could be drastically improved by reducing the dye-loss of dyed silk fabric which was coused from the Ultra-violet ray irrdiation. 5. The rubbing fastness and water repellency of tannin treated silk was at the same level with that of untreated one. However, the Drape coefficient of tannin treated silk was decreased more than that of untreated one, which is closely related with fabric softness and dressing appearence.
견에 대한 오배자탄닌과 합성탄닌의 처리조임이 견의 탄닌증량율에 미치는 영향과 탄닌증량견의 염색조건 및 실용적 특성을 구명하기 위하여 시험결과 1. 견의 증량율을 기안한 합리적인 탄닌처리 농도는 오배자 30g/l, 합성탄닌산 15g/l이었고, 처리온도 및 시간은 8$0^{\circ}C$에서 60분 내외 처리용액의 산도는 pH 2-3이었다. 2. 탄닌처리 견의 염색조건에 있어서 부착된 탄닌의 탈락을 적게하며 염착농도(K/S)를 향상시킬 수 있는 OrangeII에 의한 합리적 염색온도 및 시간은 6$0^{\circ}C$, 90분이었다. 3. 탄닌염색 가공견포의 Soaping에 의한 색착($\Delta$E)는 미가공 견포에 비하여 현저히 감소됨으로서 세탁견도가 2급이나 향상되었다. 4. 탄닌 염색가공 견포의 자외선 조사에 의한 dyeloss율은 무처리염색견포의 1/6정도로 감소됨으로서 탄니처리 견포의 내광성이 현저히 개선되었다. 5. 탄닌 염색가공 견포의 마찰견도와 발수성은 미가공 견포와 같은 수준이었으나 Drape계수는 감소됨으로서 의복의 착용감이 향상되었다.