Abstract

As an attempt to view Chason costume from a aesthetic perspective, the aesthetic values of the Choson people, as expressed through the aesthetic characteristics of costumes, are pursued in this study. To appreciate the beauty of the traditional Korean costume, the following aesthetic characteristics of Choson costumes are investigated: form, color, pattern, material and ornament. From the view point of aesthetics, this study shows that Choson costume had comfortable and voluminous forms with beautiful curved lines and rhythm. The most favored colors were white and natural colors of materials. However unusual combination of colors such as the contrast of black and white, the harmony of the primary and rainbow colors were often used. Patterns revealed two aspects : while subdued patterns generally prevail, at times the unexpected beauty of primary colored patterns draws our attention. Smooth natural materials were preferred. Ornaments both for practical and decorative purposes were used together with certain colors and patterens, indicating wearer's status and warding off the evil's spirits. The aesthetic values in costumes as expressed through the aesthetic characteristics can be classified into the following categories: the beauty of nature, the beauty of personality, the aesthetics of evil's eye and the beauty of tradition. The beauty of nature, as appreciated by the Chason people through their prevailing nature, the "Pung-rew Spirit" and through their Worship of Heaven, produced aesthetic characteristics in harmony with nature. The beauty of personality influenced by the ethical standard of Confucianism produced aesthetic characteristics in costumes, through which the appropriate personality was shown for the appropriate social status. On the other hand, the aesthetics of evil's eye, rooted deeply in Folk religion and Shamanism, contributed to various aesthetic characteristics, which strongly inclined to sorcery and symbolism through choice of patterns, colors and ornaments. Finally, the beauty of tradition, which was based on the ethics of Confucianism and the Choson people's conservative tendencies, demonstrated the strong tendency to adhere to the external characteristics of the Choson costume. These aesthetic values were the yardsticks of the aesthetic judgment of the Choson people. These values influenced Chason people in designing costumes and in appreciating the beauty of costumes. The aesthetic experience and attitudes of the Chason people, which were based on these aesthetic values, represented their aesthetic consciousness and desires.

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