Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
권호 표지

Antimicrobial Plant Extracts as an Alternative of Chemical Preservative: Preservative Efficacy of Terminalia chebula, Rhus japonica (gallut) and Cinnmomum cassia Extract in the Cosmetic Formular

가자, 오배자, 계피 추출물을 이용한 화장품 제형에서의 방부효과

  • 조은미 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 배준태 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 표형배 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소) ;
  • 이근수 (한불화장품(주) 기술연구소)
  • Published : 2008.12.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study was carried to investigate the efficiency of antimicrobial plant extracts as natural preservative in the cosmetic formulations. Ethanol extracts of different plants were tested using the disc diffusion (paper disc) method and the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) method for their antimicrobial activity against the common poultry pathogens. Terminalia chebula and Rhus japonica (gallut) extracts exhibited antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Escherichia coli. Cinnmomum cassia extract exhibited antifungal activity against Candida albicans and Aspergillus niger while the remaining plant extracts showed no activity. A study of the preservative efficacy of the cosmetic formular containing the T. chebula, R. japonica and C. cassia extracts demonstrated sufficient preservative efficacy against bacteria and eukaryotic test microbes. Also, the cosmetic formulations containing antimicrobial plant extracts more effectively inhibited the microoranisms than the mixture of traditional chemical preservatives. These results suggest that the mixture of antimicrobial plant extracts, T. chebula, R. japonica and C. cassia is incorporated as preservative in the cosmetic formulation and the mixture have considerable effect on its efficacy.

본 연구는 천연 식물 추출물을 이용하여 화장품 제형 내에서 천연 방부제로서 효능을 확인하기 위한 목적으로 진행하였다. 선별된 15종의 천연 식물 추출물을 이용하여 병원성 세균(Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Escherichia coli)과 효모균(Candida albicans), 곰팡이균(Aspergillus niger)에 대한 paper disc법(disc diffusion method)과 최소저해농도측정법(MIC)을 이용하여 항균 활성을 측정하였다. 그 결과 가자, 오배자 추출물은 그람 양성인 S. aureus와 그람 음성균인 P. aeruginosa, E. coli 에 대한 항세균 활성이 우수하였고, 계피 추출물은 효모균인 C. albicans와 곰팡이균인 A. niger에 대해 우수한 항진균 활성을 나타냈다. 최종 선별된 3종 외 식물추출물은 효과가 없었다. 항균 활성 효과가 우수한 최적 조합비로 구성된 가자, 오배자, 계피 추출물의 혼합 추출물을 화장품 제형에 첨가하여 제형 내 방부 활성을 측정한 결과 상업적으로 널리 사용되고 있는 파라벤 혼합 방부제와 유사한 정도의 방부 활성을 나타냄을 확인하였다. 결론적으로, 화학 방부제를 대신하여 천연 식물 추출물로만 이루어진 넓은 항균 스펙트럼을 갖춘 방부 시스템의 개발이 가능할 것으로 사료되며 최근 다양한 문제가 제기되고 있는 화학 방부제의 단점을 극복한 천연 방부제를 함유한 화장료의 개발에 응용 가능할 것으로 기대된다.

Keywords

References

  1. K. K. Ok, K. Y. Doo, S. J. Kim, J. D. Kim, S. S. Park, and H. S. Lee, New cosmetical, Donghwa Publishing Company (1997)
  2. D. S. Orth and J. J. Kabara, Preservative-free and self-preserving cosmetics and drugs application of hurdle technology, Cosmet. Toil., 113(4), 51 (1998)
  3. E. Esposito, F. Bortolotti, C. Nastruzzi, E. Menegatti, and R. Cortesi, Diffusion of preservatives from topical dosage forms: a comparative study, J. Cosmet. Sci., 54(3), 239 (2003)
  4. D. Steinberg, Z. Hirschfeld, I. Tayeb, S. Ben-Yosef, A. David, and M. Friedman, The effect of parabens in a mouthwash and incorporated into a sustained release varnish on salivary bacteria, J. Dentistry., 27(2), 101 (1999) https://doi.org/10.1016/S0300-5712(98)00040-2
  5. D. Steinberg, Frequency of use of preservatives 2001, Cosmet. Toil., 117(4), 41 (2002)
  6. J. Vilaplana and C. Romaguera, Contact dermatitis from parabens used as preservatives in eyedrops, Contact Dermatiti., 43(4), 248 (2000)
  7. S. M. Cooper and S. Shaw, Allergic contact dermatitis from parabens in a tar shampoo, Contact Dermatitis, 39(3), 140 (1998) https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0536.1998.tb05871.x
  8. P. Bonnevie, Overfolsomhed for aetylparaoxybenzoat (Mycoten), Nordisk Medicin, 6, 684 (1940)
  9. L. Sarkany, Contact dermatitis from pafaben, J. Dermatol., 72(10), 345 (1960) https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.1960.tb13815.x
  10. A. A. Fisher, The paraben paradox, Cutis, 12, 830 (1973)
  11. E. J. Routledge, J. Parker, J. Odum, J. Ashby, and J. P. Sumpter, Some alkyl hydroxy benzoate preservatives (parabens) are estrogenic, Toxicol. Appl. Pharm., 153(1), 12 (1998) https://doi.org/10.1006/taap.1998.8544
  12. D. H. Shin, Food science and industry, 23(4), 68 (1990)
  13. C. Singh, $2{\alpha}$-Hydroxymicromeric acid, a pentacyclic triterpene from Terminalia chebula, Phytochemistry, 29(7), 2348 (1990) https://doi.org/10.1016/0031-9422(90)83072-9
  14. N. N. Barthakur and N. P. Arnold, Nutritive value of the chebulic myrobalan (Terminalia chebula Retz.) and its potential as a food source, Food Chem., 40, 213 (1991) https://doi.org/10.1016/0308-8146(91)90105-W
  15. J. H. Park, Korean drug handbook, 1, Shinilbooks, Seoul (2002)
  16. O. J. Choi, Components and usage of herbs, Ilworlseogak (1999)
  17. D. Kalemba and A. Kunicka, Antibacterial and antifungal properties of essential oils, Curr. Med. Chem., 10(10), 813 (2003) https://doi.org/10.2174/0929867033457719
  18. S. B. Seo, C. S. Ryu, G. W. Ahn, H. B. Kim, B. K. Jo, S. H. Kim, J. D. Lee, and T. Kajiuchi, Development of a natural preservative system using the mixture of chitosan - Inula helenium L. extract, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 24(4), 195 (2002) https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00139.x
  19. Microbial challenge of test material (CTFA method M-3 and M-4)
  20. D. S. Orth and D. Enigl, Preservative efficacy testing by a rapid screening method for estimation of D-values, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 329 (1993)
  21. A. Nostro, M. A. Cannatelli, I. Morelli, A. D. Musolino, F. Scuderi, F. Pizzimenti, and V. Alonzo, Efficiency of Calamintha officinalis essential oil as preservative in two topical product types, J. Appl. Microbiol., 97, 395 (2004) https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2672.2004.02319.x
  22. D. S. Orth and D. C. Steinberg, The safety factor in preservative efficacy testing, Cosmet. Toil., 118(44), 51 (2003)
  23. M. Ferrari, L. C. L. Monterio, D. J. A. Netz, and P. A. Rocha-Filho, Identifying cosmetic forms and crystalline phases from ternary systems, Cosmet. Toil., 118(4), 61 (2003)
  24. R. Gruening, As much as necessary, as little as possible: a simple rule for the use of preservatives in cosmetics, Cosmet. Toil., 113(4), 61 (1998)
  25. J. I. Yablonski and S. E. Mancuso, Preservation of atypical cosmetic product systems, Cosmet. Toil., 117(4), 31 (2002)
  26. M. S. Blois, Antioxidant determinations by the use of a stable free radical, Nature, 181, 1199 (1958) https://doi.org/10.1038/1811199a0
  27. I. D. Trayner, A. P. Rayner, G. E. Freeamn, and R. Farzaneh, Quantitative multiwell myeloid differentiation assay using dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate ($H_2DCFDA$) or dihydrorhodamine 123 ($H_2R123$), J. Immunological Methods, 186, 275 (1995) https://doi.org/10.1016/0022-1759(95)00152-Z
  28. T. Branna, A preservative market update, Happi, 5, 101 (2003)