Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Inhibition of Melanogenesis by Ramalin from the Antarctic Lichen Ramalina terebrata

남극 지의류 Ramalina terebrata로부터 분리된 라말린의 미백효과

  • Received : 2012.04.16
  • Accepted : 2012.08.18
  • Published : 2012.09.30
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Abstract

Ramalin (${\gamma}$-glutamyl-N'-(2-hydroxyphenyl)hydrazide) isolated from the Antarctic lichen Ramalina terebrata has been shown to have strong antioxidant activities in the previous study. To investigate additional activities of ramalin, we studied the effects of ramalin on melanogenesis in melan-a cells, a non-tumorigenic melanocyte cell line. At a non-cytotoxic concentration, ramalin dramatically decreased melanin synthesis in melan-a cells in a dose-dependent manner, which was more potent than arbutin, a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor. Ramalin inhibited cell-free tyrosinase activity directly and intracellular tyrosinase activity as well. Its inhibitory mechanisms on melanin production were further assessed, and we found that ramalin significantly decreased the protein levels of melanogenic enzymes such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2). However, the mRNA levels of these enzymes were not altered. In a clinical study, application of 0.2 % ramalin on human skin significantly improved the degree of skin brightness after 3 weeks. In conclusion, ramalin has strong anti-melanogenic activity that is exerted both by the direct inhibition of tyrosinase activity and by down-regulation of melanogenic proteins. Furthermore, ramalin showed skin brightening effect in a clinical study. Collectively, these results suggest that ramalin may be a useful inhibitor for melanogenesis in skin.

남극 지의류인 Ramalina terebrata에서 분리 정제된 라말린(${\gamma}$-glutamyl-N'-(2-hydroxyphenyl)hydrazide)은 이전 연구에서 강력한 항산화능을 확인하였다. 본 연구에서는 라말린의 추가적인 효능을 확인하기 위하여, 비암세포 세포주인 멜란에이 세포를 이용하여 라말린의 멜라닌 합성에 대한 효과를 확인하였다. 라말린은 세포 독성이 없는 농도에서, 멜란에이 세포에서 멜라닌 합성을 농도 의존적으로 감소시켰으며, 이러한 효과는 널리 사용되고 있는 미백제인 알부틴보다 우수하였다. 라말린은 무세포 타이로시네이즈의 활성을 직접 저해했을 뿐만 아니라, 세포 내의 타이로시네이즈의 활성도 저해하는 효과를 보였다. 라말린의 이러한 멜라닌 합성 저해의 기전 연구를 위하여, 멜라닌 합성에 중요한 단백질인 타이로시네이즈, TRP-1, TRP-2의 mRNA와 단백질 발현을 조사한 결과, mRNA양에는 영향을 주지 않고, 단백질의 발현은 감소되는 것으로 나타났다. 또한, 0.2 % 라말린을 포함한 제형을 사람피부에 도포하였을 때, 3주 후에 피부 밝기가 개선됨을 확인하였다. 이상의 결과를 통해서, 라말린은 타이로시네이즈의 직접적인 저해뿐만 아니라 멜라닌 합성과 관련된 단백질의 발현을 저해함으로써 미백효과를 나타낸다고 할 수 있으며, 이러한 효과를 인체시험을 통해 확인하였다. 따라서, 라말린은 멜라닌 합성을 저해하는 미백 소재로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 판단된다.

Keywords

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