DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Patternmaking of Men's Slim-fit Jacket Sloper in Their 30's Part 1 - Focusing on four-panel jacket sloper -

30대 남성 슬림 핏 재킷원형 패턴설계 제 1보 - 4패널 재킷원형을 중심으로 -

  • Kim, Myoung-Ok (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Hanyang University) ;
  • Suh, Mi-A (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Hanyang University)
  • Received : 2014.01.01
  • Accepted : 2014.03.11
  • Published : 2014.04.30

Abstract

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit four-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance and movement evaluations twice. Then the researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores in the evaluations. The results are as follows: First, when comparing the existing slopers, ease on the chest varied from 13 cm to 17.8 cm. Actual measurements or formula method were used for the armhole depth, waist line, and hip line. It was one-third of armhole length for the sleeve cap height in most existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance and movement evaluations (front neck depth, ease on the chest, front dropped length, ease on the sleeve cap, and the position that separate the two piece sleeves on the back). Third, the suggested sloper, has 13~14 cm for ease in the chest circumference and 2.5 cm for front dropped length. It sets to chest/4+2 cm for armhole depth, height/4+1 cm for waist line placement, and height/8 for hip length. The sleeve cap height is one-third of armhole length. These results will be useful when the industrial technical designers develop various jacket patterns.

Keywords

References

  1. Ahn, S. W. (2001). A study on the body cathexis and satisfaction with ready-to-wear fit of 20 to 59 year-old men. Unpublished master's thesis, Korea University, Seoul.
  2. Aldrich, W. (1985). Metric pattern cutting for menswear-including unisex casual clothes-. London: Collins Professional Technical Books.
  3. Cho, R. H. (2008). Establishments of the suitable basic slim fit jacket pattern for man age of 18-24. Unpublished master's thesis, Sungkyunkwan University. Seoul.
  4. Choi, M. S. (2005). Simulation on silhouette variations according to vacant space quantity between body abd clothing-focused on men's upper body. Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 7(2), 225-230.
  5. Fashion Journal. (2012, July 20). Korea fashion market trend, the first half of 2012. Fashion Journal. Retrieved September 1, 2012, from http://www.okfashion.co.kr..
  6. Jung, J. E. (2004). The study on men's jacket block according to somatotype. Journal of Fashion Business, 10(1), 41-57.
  7. Kawashima, M. (1995). Fundamentals of men's fashion design- A guide to tailored clothes. New York: Fairchild Publications.
  8. Kim, H. S. (2012, November 9). Forget a uncle's suits- slim-fit blows up in menswear market. Hankookilbo. Retrieved November 15, 2012, from http://news.hankooki.com/lpage/economy/201211/h2012110921015421500.htm
  9. Kim, J. S., & Lee, W. J. (2004). A study on the design of men's jacket pattern. The Research Journal of Costume Culture, 12(6), 953-970.
  10. Kim, M. J., & Jo, J. S. (2006). A study on the basic pattern of men's casual jacket. The Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 30(2), 207-220.
  11. Kim, M. O., & Suh, M. A. (2011). Survey on purchase fitting of menswear suits according to styles for consumers in their 30s. The Research Journal of Costume Culture, 19(1), 191-199.
  12. Korean Agency for Technology and Standards. (2004). 5th Report of Korean Body Measurements. Seoul: Author.
  13. Kwak, T. G., & Suh, W. S. (2008). 남성복 패턴의 기법[Technology of men's wear patternmaking]. Seoul: Kyoungchunsa.
  14. Nam, Y. J., & Lee, H. S. (2005). 남성복 패턴메이킹[Men's wear Patternmaking]. Seoul: Kyohakyungusa.
  15. Shin, H. J. (2008). Development of original type of men's wear bodice. Unpublished master's thesis, Sookmyung Womans University, Seoul.
  16. Yang, C. E., & Seong, O. J. (2011). Development of pattern in casual slim-fit jacket for middle-aged men. Journal of Design Forum, 32, 382-391.

Cited by

  1. Adolescent Girls’ Bodice Pattern Fit Using the 3-Dimensional Virtual Clothing System vol.54, pp.3, 2016, https://doi.org/10.6115/fer.2016.022
  2. Patternmaking of Men's Slim-fit Jacket Sloper in Their 30's Part 2 -Focusing on 6-panel jacket- vol.17, pp.1, 2015, https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.1.93
  3. Lower Body Type Classification of Korean Men in Their 30's for the Development of Slim-Fit Pants Pattern vol.17, pp.2, 2015, https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.227
  4. Patternmaking of slim-fit jacket sloper for men in their 30's according to numbers of jacket buttons Part 1 - Focusing on ease - vol.23, pp.5, 2015, https://doi.org/10.7741/rjcc.2015.23.5.835
  5. Patternmaking of Men's Slim-fit Jacket Sloper for Men in Their 30's according to numbers of Jacket button Part 2 - Focusing on the neck width setting - vol.18, pp.1, 2016, https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2016.18.1.71
  6. Analysis of user satisfaction for unisex medical uniform 2017, https://doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-04-2017-0013