Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers (한국해안·해양공학회논문집)

Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers (한국해안·해양공학회)
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Prediction of Swell-like High Waves Using Observed Data on the East Coast of Korea

관측치를 활용한 동해안 너울성 고파 예측

  • 이창훈 (세종대학교 건설환경공학과) ;
  • 안석진 ((주)지오시스템리서치) ;
  • 이병욱 (세종대학교 건설환경공학과) ;
  • 김신웅 ((주)지오시스템리서치) ;
  • 권석재 (국립해양조사원 해양과학조사연구실)
  • Received : 2014.02.06
  • Accepted : 2014.06.25
  • Published : 2014.06.30
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Abstract

In this study, we develop an algorithm to predict swell-like high waves on the east coast of Korea using the directional wave gauge which was installed near Sokcho. Using the numerical wave model SWAN, we estimate wave data in open sea from the wave data collected by using the directional wave gauge. Then, using the wave ray method and SWAN model with the open-sea wave data as offshore boundary conditions, we predict the swell-like high waves at several major points on the east coast of Korea. We verify the prediction methods with the SWAN and wave ray methods by comparing predicted data against measured one at Wangdolcho. We can improve the prediction of the swell-like high waves in the east sea of Korea using both the real-time wave measurement system and the present prediction algorithm.

본 연구에서는 속초 인근의 파향 파고계로 관측된 파랑 자료를 이용하여 동해안 주요지역에 너울성 고파를 예측하는 알고리즘을 개발하였다. SWAN 모형을 이용하여 연안의 파랑 관측 자료로부터 고파 발생지로 예상되는 외해지점의 파랑 제원을 추정하였다. 추정된 파랑 제원을 경계조건으로 쓰고 SWAN 모형과 파향선 추적법을 사용하여 동해안 주요지역에서의 너울성 고파를 예측하였다. 왕돌초에서 관측한 파랑 자료를 예측 결과와 비교하여 예측알고리즘의 정확성을 검증하였다. 동해안 실시간 파랑관측 시스템과 본 연구결과를 활용하면 동해안 너울성 고파를 보다 정확하게 예측할 수 있다.

Keywords

References

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