Fashion & Textile Research Journal (한국의류산업학회지)

The Society of Fashion and Textile Industry (한국의류산업학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A study of Developing Torso Master Pattern Using 3D body Measurement Data - Focusing on Women in their thirties proper Body Types -

3차원 인체형상자료를 활용한 토르소 마스터패턴 개발 - 30대 바른 체형 여성을 대상으로 -

  • Shin, Ju-Young Annie (Dept. of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design, Seoul National University) ;
  • Nam, Yun-Ja (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles/Research Institute of Human Ecology, Seoul National University)
  • 신주영 (서울대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 남윤자 (서울대학교 의류학과/생활과학연구소)
  • Received : 2015.03.08
  • Accepted : 2015.05.18
  • Published : 2015.06.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to develop a torso pattern that is highly representative for the proper body shape of women in their thirties. Size data of the women with age of 30 through 39 from the database of Size Korea 2004 were used for the study. In order to develop a master pattern which will be used as the benchmark for grading of research group, 4 existing torso block drafting methods were compared based on the data gathered and the block with the highest evaluation score was utilized as a reference point. For the analysis, data was divided into four types, only the data of 138 subjects which were evaluated at least by four or more experts as valid were used for the study. The major results can be summarized as follow. The women of bust girth of 91cm and height of 160cm which was turned out to be representative type of research group were used as standard measurement for the purpose of reflecting not only curve length of the 3D analysis measurement but also the difference between front and back thickness to the pattern. Dart locations were set based on front and back torso ease, shoulder area revisions, front sagging length 1.5cm and cross section crevice length analysis. According to the experts' appearance evaluation of the pattern was found to be better than the control pattern which was regarded as the best among 4 patterns created based on existing torso block drafting methods.

Keywords

References

  1. Armstrong, H. J. (1995). Pattern making for fashion design. New York: Hopper Collins.
  2. Cho, J. S., & Choi, J. W. (2002). Development of a grading increments chart for women's wear focusing on dimensional variations among groups of different ages, heights, and drop values. Journal of Textile Science and Engineering, 39(2), 240-250.
  3. Choi, Y. K. (1997). Shape classification of body type on adult female and its variation of size and shape according to their age. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Seoul National University, Seoul.
  4. Choi, Y. S. (2001). A study on the comparison of women's wear grading by different age groups. Unpublished master's thesis, Dongduk Women's University, Seoul.
  5. Choi, Y. L., Sun, S. W., & Kim, H. (2007). Proportion-based women's pattern. Seoul: Kyohac research.
  6. Choi, Y. L., & Nam, Y. J. (2009). Surface pattern comparison among lateral body types flattening 3D figure data. Fibers and Polymers, 10(6), 837-846. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12221-009-0837-7
  7. Doosan doopedia. (2015). Seoul: Doosan Dong-A
  8. Dunne, L., & Ashdown, S. P. (2006). A study of automated custom fit : Readiness of the technology for the apparel industry. International Textile and Apparel Association, 24(2), 121-136.
  9. Jang, S. O. (1997). A study on the effective development of the grading technology for body shapes of the korean women. Journal of Industrial Technology, 12(2), 93-104.
  10. Jung, M. S. (1994). Classification of somatotype and its characteristic according to age group of adult female. Unpublished master's thesis, Seoul National University, Seoul.
  11. Kim, K. S. (2010). Change pattern of body shape on chronological age in Korean adult women. Unpublished master's thesis, Seoul National University, Seoul.
  12. Kim, S. J. (1996). Classification and analysis of the somatotype of middle - Aged women through side view silhouette. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 20(2), 373-389.
  13. Kim, W. (2009). Development of classifying method for upper lateral somatotype of men in their 20s by using space vector. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Seoul National University, Seoul.
  14. Kim, S. M., & Kang, T. J. (2003). Garment pattern generation from body scan data. Computer-Aided Design, 35(7), 611-618. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0010-4485(02)00081-7
  15. Koike, C. (1998). The theory of formative clothing (J. I. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Yehacsa. (Original work Published 1994)
  16. Korean Agency for Technology and Standards. (2004). The 5th Size Korea 3D scan & measurement technology report. Seoul: Government Printing Office.
  17. Kwon, S. H. (1997). Classification and analysis of the somatotype through side view silhouette of the whole body by multivariate method. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 21(7), 1227-1235.
  18. Lee, S. W., & Choi, Y. K. (1998). Shape classification of body type of adult women. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 22(1), 88-88.
  19. Lee, E. Y., & Jung, I. H. (2010). Research methodology in clothing & textiles. Paju: Kyomunsa.
  20. Lee, H. S., & Nam, Y. J. (2007). Patternmaking for women's wear. Seoul: Kyohac research.
  21. Muller, M., & Muller, S. (1985). The completion of cutting women's wear. Seoul: Mirine.
  22. Nam, Y. J. (1983). A study on the classification of the somatotype of Korean females. Unpublished master's thesis, Seoul National University, Seoul.
  23. Nam, Y. J. (1991). A study on classification of somatotype based on the lateral view of women's upper body. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Seoul National University, Seoul.
  24. Park, S. M. (2009). A study on the creation of virtual parametric lower body for elderly women for the apparel industry. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Seoul National University, Seoul.
  25. Patricia, T. (1980). Pattern making manual. Paris: ESMOD.
  26. Phoebe, R. A. (2010). Application of 3D body scanning technology to human measurement for clothing fit. International Journal of Digital Content Technology and its Applications, 4(7), 58-68. https://doi.org/10.4156/jdcta.vol4.issue7.6
  27. Petrova, A., & Ashdown, S. P. (2008). Three-dimensional body scan data analysis: Body size shape dependence of ease values for pants's fit. Clothing and Textile Research Journal, 26(3), 227-252. https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X07309479
  28. Samkilmanjija. (2002). 被服構成學 : 理論編 (clothing construction : theory). (H. J. Ong, Trans.). Seoul: Kyohacresearch. (Original work Published 1987)
  29. Shin, J. Y. A., & Nam, Y. J. (2015). A study on body shape for 3D virtual body shape transformation -Focusing on the women with age of forties-. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 17(2), 265-277. doi:10.5805/SFTI.2015.17.2.265
  30. Taylor, P. J., & Shoben, M. M. (1984). Grading for the fashion industry-The theory and practice. London: Hutchinson Ltd.
  31. Wells, J. C. K., Treleaven, P., & Cole, T. J. (2007). BMI compared with 3-dimensional body shape: the UK national sizing survey. The American Society for Clinical Nutrition, 85(2), 419-425. https://doi.org/10.1093/ajcn/85.2.419

Cited by

  1. Adolescent Girls’ Bodice Pattern Fit Using the 3-Dimensional Virtual Clothing System vol.54, pp.3, 2016, https://doi.org/10.6115/fer.2016.022
  2. Developing of Grading Method using 3D Body Measurement Data of Women in Their Thirties:Focusing on Their Proper Body Types vol.19, pp.6, 2017, https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2017.19.6.749