DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Long-term Wave Monitoring and Analysis Off the Coast of Sokcho

속초 연안의 장기 파랑관측 및 분석

  • Jeong, Weon Mu (Coastal & Environmental Engineering Division, Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology) ;
  • Ryu, Kyung-Ho (Coastal & Environmental Engineering Division, Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology) ;
  • Cho, Hongyeon (Coastal & Environmental Engineering Division, Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology)
  • 정원무 (한국해양과학기술원 연안공학연구본부) ;
  • 류경호 (한국해양과학기술원 연안공학연구본부) ;
  • 조홍연 (한국해양과학기술원 연안공학연구본부)
  • Received : 2015.07.20
  • Accepted : 2015.08.10
  • Published : 2015.08.31

Abstract

Wave data acquired over eleven years near Sokcho Harbor located in the central area of the east coast were analyzed using spectral method and wave-by-wave analysis method and its major wave characteristics were examined. Significant wave heights were found to be high in winter and low in summer, and peak periods were also found to be long in winter and short in summer. The maximum significant wave height observed was 8.95 m caused by the East Sea twister. The distributional pattern of the significant wave heights and peak periods were both fitted better by Kernel distribution function than by Generalized Gamma distribution function and Generalized Extreme Value distribution function. The wave data were compiled to subdivide the wave height into intervals for each month, and the cumulative occurrence rates of wave heights were calculated to be utilized for the design and construction works in nearby construction works.

동해 중부에 위치한 속초항 연안에서 약 11년간 취득한 파랑자료를 스펙트럼법과 파별분석법을 사용하여 분석하고 대표적인 파랑 특성을 검토하였다. 유의파고는 동계에 크고 하계에 작으며, 첨두주기도 동계에 길고 하계에 짧은 특성을 나타내었다. 관측된 최대 유의파고는 8.95 m 였으며 동해선풍에 의하여 발생되었다. 유의파고와 첨두주기 모두 그 분포 형태를 Generalized Gamma 및 Generalized Extreme Value 분포함수보다는 Kernel 분포함수가 보다 잘 재현하였다. 한편, 인근 해역에서의 설계 및 시공에 도움을 줄 수 있도록 파고 자료를 월별 및 파고 구간별로 세분하고 누적출현율을 제시하였다.

Keywords

References

  1. Ahn, K., Chun, H., Jeong, W. M., Park, D., Kang, T.-S. and Hong, S.-J. (2013). Analysis of the wave spectral shape parameters for the definition of swell waves, Journal of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 25(6), 394-404 (in Korean). https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2013.25.6.394
  2. Cho, H., Jeong, W.-M., Baek, W. and Kim, S. I. (2012). Variation pattern of the wave climate in the Sokcho coastal zone, Journal of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 24(2), 120-127 (in Korean). https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2012.24.2.120
  3. Cho, H., Jeong, W.-M. and Jun, K.C. (2013). Relationship analysis on the monitoring period and parameter estimation error of the coastal wave climate data, Journal of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 25(1), 34-39 (in Korean). https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2013.25.1.34
  4. Dodet, G., Bertin, X. and Taborda, R. (2010). Wave climate variability in the North-East Atlantic Ocean over the last six decades, Ocean Modelling, 31, 120-131. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2009.10.010
  5. Holthuijsen, L.H. (2007). Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters, Cambridge Univ. Press.
  6. Jeong, W.M., Cho, H.-Y., Oh, S.H. and Kim, S.I. (2013). Temporal and spatial variations in the wave energy potential of the east coastal seas of Korea, Journal of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 25(5), 191-199 (in Korean). https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2013.25.4.191
  7. Jeong, W.M., Oh, S.-H., Baek, W.-D. and Chae, J.-W. (2012). Characteristics of waves around the sea near Busan New Port based on continuous long-term observations during recent 10 years, Journal of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 24(2), 109-119 (in Korean). https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2012.24.2.109
  8. Jeong, W.M., Oh, S.-H., Lee, D.S. and Lee, D.Y. (2007). Comparison of wave power resources in the coastal zone of the Korean east sea estimated by using field measurement data, Korean Society of New and Renewable Energy, 3(3), 28-35 (in Korean).
  9. Jeong, W.M., Cho, H. and Baek, W. (2015). Analysis of the longterm wave characteristics off the coast of Daejin, Journal of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, Materials, 27(2), 142-147 (in Korean). https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2015.27.2.142
  10. Kamphuis, J.W. (2000). Introduction to Coastal Engineering and Management, Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering, 16, World Scientific.
  11. Kotz, S. and Nadarajah, S. (2000). Extreme Value Distributions, Theory and Applications, Imperial College Press.
  12. Marthiesen, M. (1994). Estimation of wave height duration statistics, Coastal Engineering, 23, 167-181. https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(94)90021-3
  13. Martinez, W.L. and Martinez, A.R. (2005). Exploratory Data Analysis with MATLAB, Chap. 9, Chapman & Hall/CRC.
  14. Song, M., Kim, D., Kim, M., Hong, K. and Jun, K. (2004). Analysis of wave energy density for Korean coastal sea area based on long-term simulated wave data, Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environmental Engineering, 7(3), 152-157 (in Korean).
  15. Silverman, B.W. (1998). Density Estimation for Statistics and Data Analysis, Monographs on Statistics and Applied Probability, 26, Chapman & Hall/CRC.
  16. Sobey, R.J. and Orloff, L.S. (1999). Intensity-duration-frequency summaries for wave climate, Coastal Engineering, 36, 37-58. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(98)00048-9

Cited by

  1. Comparison of the Shallow-Water Design Wave Height on the Korean East Coast Based on Wave Observation Data and Numerical Simulation vol.28, pp.5, 2016, https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2016.28.5.292
  2. Trends of the Storm Wave Appearance on the East Coast Analyzed by using Long-term Wave Observation Data vol.28, pp.2, 2016, https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2016.28.2.109
  3. Distribution and Trend Analysis of the Significant Wave Heights Using KMA and ECMWF Data Sets in the Coastal Seas, Korea vol.29, pp.3, 2017, https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2017.29.3.129
  4. Analysis on the Reduction Effects of the Gravity Waves and Infra-Gravity Waves of Detached Submerged Breakwater by Field Monitoring vol.30, pp.2, 2018, https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2018.30.2.51