Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Effects of Molecular Weights of Sodium Hyaluronate on the Collagen Synthesis, Anti-inflammation and Transdermal Absorption

히알루론산나트륨의 분자량 크기에 따른 Collagen 합성, 항염증 및 피부 흡수에 미치는 영향

  • 신은지 (바이오스트림테크놀러지스(주)) ;
  • 박주웅 (바이오스트림테크놀러지스(주)) ;
  • 최지원 (가톨릭대학교 생명공학과) ;
  • 서정연 (가톨릭대학교 생명공학과) ;
  • 박용일 (바이오스트림테크놀러지스(주))
  • Received : 2016.07.18
  • Accepted : 2016.08.31
  • Published : 2016.09.30
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Abstract

In this study, we examined the effects of various molecular weights (1, 10, 50, 100, 660, and 1500 kDa) of sodium hyaluronate (HA), which were prepared by enzyme hydrolysis, on the collagen synthesis, anti-inflammation and skin absorption. These HA did not significantly affect the viability of human dermal fibroblast Hs68 cells. Among them, 1500 kDa, 50 kDa HA most significantly increased collagen production by 59%, and 50% in the Hs 68 cells, respectively. Whereas 1500 and 660 kDa HA hardly pass through mouse transdermis membrane, lower molecular weights (1, 10, or 50 kDa) of HA showed time-dependent increase in skin permeation. HA of 50 kDa showed highest anti-inflammatory effects by reducing nitric oxide and tumor necrosis factor-${alpha}$ production in the RAW 264.7 cells, comparing to other HA (1, 10, and 100 kDa HA). Recently, there is no report about anti-wrinkle and anti-inflammatory effects and skin permeation of different molecular weights HA (1, 10, 50, 100, 660 and 1500 kDa), which were produced by enzyme hydrolysis. These results suggested that 50 kDa HA can be potent candidates for the development of effective anti-aging and anti-wrinkle cosmetic agents. The results of this study demonstrated that among those HA with different molecular weights, 50 kDa HA showed highest anti-inflammatory activity, significant capability to induce collagen synthesis and high level of skin permeation.

본 연구에서는 히알루론산나트륨(sodium hyaluronate, HA)을 효소 분해하여 분자량 크기(1, 10, 50, 100, 660, 및 1500 kDa) 별로 제조한 뒤 콜라겐 합성 및 항염증 활성에 미치는 영향과 피부투과도를 조사하였다. 이들 HA는 인간피부세포인 Hs68 세포에 세포독성을 나타내지 않았다. 콜라겐 생합성능은 1500 kDa, 50, kDa HA가 각각 59, 50%로 콜라겐 생합성 촉진능이 우수한 것으로 나타났다. 분자량 크기에 따른 HA의 피부투과도를 측정한 결과 660 또는 1500 kDa의 HA은 2% 미만의 미미한 투과율을 보였으나, 저분자 HA (1, 10, 또는 50 kDa)은 시간이 지남에 따라 투과율이 증가하는 것을 확인하였다. 마우스 대식세포인 RAW 264.7 세포에서 HA 분자량 크기에 따른 항염증 효과를 확인한 결과, 50 kDa HA가 농도 의존적으로 nitric oxide 및 tumor necrosis factor-${alpha}$ 합성을 저해하여 다른 분자량의 HA (1, 10, 및 100 kDa)에 비해 가장 큰 항염증 효능을 나타냈다. 현재까지 효소(hyaluronidase) 처리하여 제조된 다양한 크기의 분자량(1, 10, 50, 100, 660, 1500 kDa)의 HA 중 50 kDa HA가 collagen의 합성, 항염증 및 피부 흡수도에 대한 종합적인 평가를 한 사례는 없었다. 따라서 이러한 연구결과는 50 kDa의 HA가 인간피부세포에서 콜라겐 합성을 증진시키고, 피부 투과율을 높으며 피부 주름을 유발하는 염증반응을 억제함으로써 피부노화 및 주름 개선용 화장품소재로 개발될 수 있는 가능성을 보여준다.

Keywords

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