Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Effect of Extract from Fermented Black Soybean (Glycine max var. Seoritae) on the Hair Damaged by Decolorization

서리태 발효추출물이 탈색을 통해 손상된 모발에 미치는 영향

  • 정희훈 ((주)마크로케어 부설연구소) ;
  • 신민규 ((주)마크로케어 부설연구소) ;
  • 이수열 ((주)마크로케어 부설연구소) ;
  • 이상린 ((주)마크로케어 부설연구소) ;
  • 김무성 ((주)마크로케어 부설연구소)
  • Received : 2017.05.17
  • Accepted : 2017.06.27
  • Published : 2017.06.30
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Abstract

This study was carried out to investigate the hair protection effect of fermented black soybean extracts. The morphological characteristics, tensile strength and constitutional changes of the hair were analyzed and compared when the hair was chemically oxidized and then treated with fermented black soybean extract. As a result, treatment of oxidizing agent on virgin hair caused damage on the cuticle layer of the epidermis and decreased in tensile strength of hair from $14.32{\pm}0.83g/cm^2$ to $12.32{\pm}0.79g/cm^2$. FT-IR analysis showed the peaks at 1,077, 1,041, and $801cm^{-1}$ of the hair treated with oxidizing agent were increased compared to peak values of virgin hair, indicating that cystein in hair was decreased which is crucial to disulfide bond between keratin. On the other hand, when the damaged hair is treated with the fermented black soybean extract, cracks in the cuticle layer of the epidermis were filled, tensile strength was restored to $14.27{\pm}0.96g/cm^2$ and the ratio of oxidized cysteine in hair was decreased. These results suggest that the fermented black soybean extract is worthy of further investigation as a protective material for hair damaged by oxidizing agents.

본 연구에서는 서리태 발효추출물의 모발보호효과를 확인하기 위한 연구를 수행하였다. 화학적 산화를 통해 손상된 모발을 준비한 뒤 서리태 발효추출물을 처리하였을 때 모발의 형태학적 특성, 인장강도, 구성성분의 변화를 분석하여 비교하였다. 그 결과 모발에 산화제를 처리하였을 때, 표피의 큐티클 층이 손상되고 모발의 인장강도가 $14.32{\pm}0.83g/cm^2$에서 $12.32{\pm}0.79g/cm^2$로 감소되었음을 확인하였다. FT-IR 분석결과 산화제를 처리한 모발은 버진 헤어에 비하여 1,077, 1,041, $801cm^{-1}$에 해당하는 피크가 증가하였으며, 이를 통해 케라틴 단백질 간의 이황화 결합에 필수적인 시스테인이 산화되는 것을 확인하였다. 반면, 손상된 모발에 서리태 발효추출물을 처리한 경우에는 표피의 큐티클 층의 틈이 메워지고, 인장강도가 $14.27{\pm}0.96g/cm^2$로 회복되었으며, 모발의 성분 중 시스테인의 산화물 비율이 감소하는 것으로 분석되었다. 이러한 결과들을 통해 발효 서리태 추출물은 산화제에 의해 손상된 모발의 보호 소재로 연구될 가치가 있는 것으로 기대된다.

Keywords

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