Fashion & Textile Research Journal (한국의류산업학회지)

The Society of Fashion and Textile Industry (한국의류산업학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Evaluation of Mobility and Appearance According to Gusset Size of Bodice and Sleeve Pattern

겨드랑이 무의 크기에 따른 상의의 운동기능성과 외관 평가

  • Park, Sunhee (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chungnam National University) ;
  • Lee, Yejin (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Chungnam National University)
  • Received : 2019.04.25
  • Accepted : 2019.05.31
  • Published : 2019.08.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study used a three-dimensional-analysis method to quantitatively analyze the change of clothing appearance according to a gusset added to bodice and sleeve patterns for men in their twenties. Comparing six different patterns, the study found that patterns P1 and P2 with little gusset did not have a large difference in the strain map, and pattern P6 had no gusset in the motion of raising the arm $28^{\circ}$ to the side (M1). When the arm was raised $45^{\circ}$ to the side (M2), the P1 pattern had the smallest deformation, and only the P5 pattern had a large deformation from the neck to the armhole area. In contrast, except for in the P3 pattern, large wrinkles formed in the front and back when the arm was raised above $158^{\circ}$ (M3) from the side of the waist to the armpit. In addition, P3 had the smallest change in the hem of the bodice and sleeves. However, the appearance of P2, P3, and P5 was excellent when the arm was moved forward (M4), and the P2 and P5 patterns were the smallest at the bodice and sleeve hem. The P6 pattern showed the least fitness in terms of function. In the case of raising the arm, there was a strong correlation between gusset size and motion function, but when the motion of the arm changed, the motion function did not improved just by changing the ease size.

Keywords

References

  1. Chae, M. H., Black, C., & Heitmeyer, J. (2006). Pre-purchase and post purchase satisfaction and fashion involvement of female tennis wear consumers. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 30(1), 25-33. doi:10.1111/j.1470-6431.2005.00434.x
  2. Cho, J. H. (2001). The development of functional raglan sleeve pattern : For a woman in her twenties. Unpublished master's thesis, Catholic University, Seoul.
  3. Choi, H. J. (1995). An ergonomic study on functional utility of movement in sleeves. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 19(5), 826-841.
  4. Choi, H. S., Park, J. H., Lee, K. M., Do, W. H., & Kim, E. K. (2001). Active sportswear design. Seoul: Soohaksa.
  5. Hahm, O. S., & Shin, S. W. (1984). A study on the garment's ease on expansion and contraction of the skin surface of the upper body. Journal of the Korean Family and Environment Research, 22(1), 33-42.
  6. Han, S. A., Nam, Y, J., Yoon, H, J., Lee S, H., & Kim, H, J. (2012). Development of sleeve patterns of structural firefighting protective clothing using by 3D body shape and 3D motion analysis. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 14(1), 109-121. doi:10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.1.109
  7. Hong, K. H., Park, K. S., Kwon, A. H., Song, Y. S., Oh, S. H., & Jeung, Y. M. (1996). Functional design process of coveralls for the improvement of mobility. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 20(2), 311-322.
  8. Im, G. B., & Park, J. H. (2017). A study on the functional sleeve pattern of sports climbing wear. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 41(4), 585-598. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2017.41.4.585
  9. Jeong, Y. H. (2013). 3D Virtual clothing menswear pattern design. Seoul: YBook.
  10. Jin, H. (2010). Assessment of men' s tennis clothing: Movement and aesthetic analysis. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Washington State University, USA.
  11. Korean agency for technology and standards. (2010). The 6th SizeKorea. Retrieved February 02, 2018, from https://sizekorea.kr/3d-body/korean-standard-body-type/2
  12. Kim, S. R. (2017). The relationship among on the enjoyment, leisure satisfaction and self-actualization of worker' sports activities. Unpublished master's thesis, Korea University, Seoul.
  13. Kim, T. G., Park, S., Park, J. W., Suh, C., & Choi, S. (2012). Technical design of tight upper sportswear based on 3D scanning technology and stretch property of knitted fabric. Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 14(2), 277-285. doi:10.5805/KSCI.2012.14.2.277
  14. Kim, N. Y., Wu, Y. J., & Hong, K. (2015). Design of 3D compression upper wear based on skin deformation during arm abduction. Korean Journal of Human Ecology, 24(5), 687-700. doi:10.5934/kjhe.2015.24.5.687
  15. Kwon, S. K., Jeong, J. C., & Park, S. K. (2013). A study on the sleeve angles and gusset for the improvement of movability in a basic kimono sleeve-focusing on the standard body type in their thirties. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 21(5), 742-754. doi:10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.5.742
  16. Lee, H. J., & Lee, Y. J. (2016). Ergonomic 3D pattern development of outdoor T-shirt for men. Korean Journal of Human Ecology, 25(4), 451-462. doi:10.5934/kjhe.2016.25.4.451
  17. Nakazawa, S. (1999). 의복과 체형: 인체구조.미적요소.패턴[Clothing & body shape: Human body structure, aesthetic element, pattern]. (M. H. Na & J. S. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Yehaksa. (Original work published 1996)
  18. Van der Hoeven, H., & Kibler, W. B. (2006). Shoulder injuries in tennis players. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 40(5), 435-440. doi:10.1136/bjsm.2005.023218