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Effect of Permanent Wave on Hair Damage and Morphological Changes after Natural Henna Treatment

천연헤나 처리 후 퍼머넌트 웨이브 시술 시 모발 손상도 및 형태학적 변화에 미치는 영향

  • Lee, Eun-Jin (Department of Cosmetology, Graduate School of Engineering, Konkuk University) ;
  • Lee, June-Hee (Department of Cosmetology, Graduate School of Engineering, Konkuk University) ;
  • Lee, Jae-Nam (Department of Cosmetology, Graduate School of Engineering, Konkuk University)
  • 이은진 (건국대학교 산업대학원 향장학과) ;
  • 이준희 (건국대학교 산업대학원 향장학과) ;
  • 이재남 (건국대학교 산업대학원 향장학과)
  • Received : 2019.08.31
  • Accepted : 2019.09.29
  • Published : 2019.09.30

Abstract

This study attempted to investigate the effects of natural henna-treated permanent wave on degree of damage and morphological changes of hair. For this, amino acid was analyzed, and hair thickness and surface were observed through SEM. In addition, hair curl formation & retention, methylene blue coloring, tensile strength and elongation were measured. The results found the followings: Total amino acid contents rose as the number of natural henna treatment increased, hair protection effects are expected. In terms of curl formation, in an experimental group hair became more elastic as the number of natural henna treatment increased, compared to a control group. In both control and experimental groups, hair retention decreased as shampooing frequency increased because of extension of (C) and (C)', According to analysis of hair thickness using SEM, hair became thick in an experimental group after natural henna treatment, compared to a control group. In morphological observation of hair surface, it was mostly clean, and cuticle was tidy and healthy. In methylene blue coloring, as the number of natural henna treatment increased, absorbance went up. In addition, tensile strength declined in an experimental group, compared to a control group. As the number of natural henna treatment increased, elongation in an experimental group increased, compared to a control group. The above results show that as the number of natural henna treatment increased, hair became thicker, and curl formation and retention improved. In addition, hair elasticity and flexibility were enhanced, reducing a risk of hair damage. Therefore, the study results would be available as basic data in reducing scalp and hair damage, proposing the natural henna treatment as a method to reduce hair damage from chemical perm in cosmetology industry.

본 연구에서는 천연헤나 처리 후 펌(permanent wave)을 시술하여 모발의 손상도 및 형태학적 변화에 미치는 영향을 알아보기 위해 실험을 진행하였다. 실험 방법은 아미노산분석, 주사현미경측정에 의한 모발의 두께와 표면관찰, 모발의 컬 형성력과 지속력, 메틸렌블루 염색법, 인장강도와 신장률을 측정하였으며, 그 결과는 다음과 같다. 아미노산 총량은 천연헤나 처리횟수가 증가할수록 증가하였으며, 모발 보호 효과가 있을 것으로 보인다. 컬 형성력은 대조군에 비해 천연헤나 처리 횟수가 증가할수록 컬은 탄력이 있었다. 지속력은 대조군과 실험군 모두 샴푸 횟수가 많을수록 (C)와 (C)' 길이의 늘어짐이 증가하여 지속력이 감소하였으며, 주사전자현미경에 의한 모발의 두께는 대조군(Control)에 비해 실험군 모두 천연헤나처리 후 모발의 두께가 굵어졌다. 표면의 형태적 관찰에서는 실험군 모두 모발의 표면이 대체적으로 깨끗하고 큐티클 층이 잘 정돈되어 있음을 확인하였다. 또한 메틸렌블루염색법에서는 천연헤나처리 횟수가 증가할수록 흡광도 값은 증가하였다. 인장강도는 대조군에 비해 실험군 모두 인장강도가 감소하였으며, 신장률은 천연 헤나 처리횟수가 증가할수록 실험군의 신장률이 증가하였다. 이상의 결과를 종합하면 천연헤나 처리횟수가 증가할수록 모발의 두께가 굵어졌고, 모발의 컬 형성력과 지속력이 높아졌으며, 모발에 탄력성과 유연성을 부여함으로서 모발 손상을 완화 시킬 수 있음을 알 수 있었다. 따라서 본 연구의 천연헤나 시술법은 염색과 펌의 잦은 화학시술로 인한 고객의 손상된 모발을 관리하고, 미용산업 현장에 올바른 시술방법 제안으로 두피와 모발손상을 줄이는데 기초자료로 도움이 될 수 있을 것이다.

Keywords

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