복식문화연구 (The Research Journal of the Costume Culture)

  • 제28권4호
  • /
  • Pages.544-561
  • /
  • 2020
  • /
  • 1226-0401(pISSN)
  • /
  • 2383-6334(eISSN)
복식문화학회 (The Costume Culture Association)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

유럽 골드워크 자수의 시대별 변천과 사회·문화적 가치

Transition and social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery in Europe

  • Kim, Yi Rang (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Pusan National University) ;
  • Kwon, Mi Jeong (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Pusan National University)
  • 투고 : 2020.06.16
  • 심사 : 2020.07.23
  • 발행 : 2020.08.31
PDF 다운로드
⟨ 이전 논문 다음 논문 ⟩

초록

Goldwork embroidery is the art of embroidery using metal threads. As well as being used as a decorative element of religious clothing, flags, performing costumes, uniforms, and badges, goldwork embroidery is also used in many current designer collections. Therefore, this study aimed to examine the techniques and materials of goldwork embroidery and the formative characteristics and socio-cultural values of goldwork embroidery from its beginning to the early 20th century. For this study, various embroidery works, costumes, museum portraits, and literature were analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the transition of goldwork embroidery was divided into 4 categories: The beginning of goldwork embroidery; the golden age of goldwork embroidery; the maturity of goldwork embroidery; and various goldwork embroidery (depending on the materials used, usage, and design features). The earliest extant example is the "Maaseik fragments" in Belgium dating from the late 8th to early 9th centuries. Until the 15th century, the Church was the most important patron of goldwork embroidery; however, after the 15th century, goldwork embroidery was produced on costumes. Second, the social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery (based on transition and formative features) were classified as expression of divinity, instrument of governance, desire to be approved, and tools of self-expression. Through this study, it is evident that there have been many advances in both technique and technology over time. Furthermore, patterns of usage and social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery have changed significantly.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. 21st Century Research Society. (2004). 하룻밤에 읽는 색의 문화사 [Cultural history of color] (R. H. Jung, Trans.). Seoul: Yedam. (Original work published 2003)
  2. Anawalt, P. (2009). The worldwide history of dress (The Korean Society of Costume, Trans.). Seoul: Wisdomhouse. (Original work published 2007)
  3. Berlin Embroidery Designs. (n.d.). Faltwrom. Berlinembroidery.com, Retrieved April 28, 2020, from https://berlinembroidery.com/product/flatworm/
  4. Boehn, M. V. (2000). Die mode (J. W. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Hangilart. (Original work published 1996)
  5. Braudel, F. (1992). Civilisation materielle, economie et capitalisme [Civilization and capitalism] (S. Reynold, Trans.). CA: University of California Press. (Original work published 1982)
  6. Brown, M. (2007). Goldwork embroidery: Designs and projects. NSW: Sally Milner Publishing.
  7. Chae, M. G. (2017, December 06). 수놓은 군복.청바지... 패션계 몰아친 자수 열풍 [Dressed military uniform and jeans... the embroidery craze that has driven the fashion world]. Chosun Media, Retrieved July 07, 2020, from http://news.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2017/12/06/2017120600171.html
  8. Chanel. (n.d.). 공방컬렉션 [Artisan collection]. Retrieved April 1, 2020, from https://www.chanel.com/ko_KR/fashion/news/2017/11/metiers-d-art.html
  9. Cho, K. S. (2016). What makes france a fashion power: A socio-historical approach. The Korean Society of Costume, 66(2), 32-44. doi:10.7233/jksc.2016.66.2.032
  10. Choi, I. J. (2014, October 21). 국립한경대, 대한제국 '문관대례복' 재현 [Hankyung national university reproduces 'mungwan daeryebok' of the Korean empire]. Kyonghyang, Retrieved April 15, 2020, from http://news.khan.co.kr/kh_news/khan_art_view.html?artid=201410211458211&code=620109
  11. Choi, S. Y., & Kim, M.-J. (2014). The expression of divinity and humanity of christ through his body and clothes in the medieval paintings, baptism of christ. The Korean Society of Costume, 64(5), 168-183. doi:10.7233/jksc.2014.64.5.168
  12. Edna, W. (1930, September 1). Fashion: Gold dots embroidered on black Tulle/Silver embroidery on stiffened chiffon. Vogue, 76(5). Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://search.proquest.com/docview/879192186?accountid=13364
  13. Elias, N. (1999). Uber den prozess der zivilisation [The civilizing process] (M. E. Park, Trans.). Seoul: Hangilsa. (Original work published 1939)
  14. Entwistle, J. (2013). The fashioned body (K. H. Choi, Trans.). Seoul: Hansung University. (Original work published 2000)
  15. Francois lesage. (n.d.). In Wikipedia. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Lesage
  16. Francoise, T., & Paine, S. (2007). The art of embroidery: Inspirational stitches, textures and surfaces. London: Thames & Hudson.
  17. Gombrich, E. (2017). The story of art Vol. 16 (S. G. Beak & J. S. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Yekyong. (Original work published 1950)
  18. Google Art & Culture. (n.d.). Bodice. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/bodice/kQE733ZqtXYG-w
  19. Han, S. J. (2016). Military uniforms influential factors on mans wear in modern times (17C-19C). Society of Korean Traditional Costume, 19(4), 93-108. doi:10.16885/jktc.2016.12.19.4.93
  20. Hart, A., & North, S. (2009). Seventeenth and eighteenthcentury fashion in detail. London: V & A Publishing.
  21. Hereford Museum. (n.d.). Burse. herefordshire.gov.uk, Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://www.herefordshire.gov.uk/info/200172/museums/638/museums_collections_search?Id=2953
  22. Hinshaw, V. (2011). Royal wedding gowns. Retrieved May 1, 2020, April 15, 2020, from http://numberonelondon.net/category/royalty/princess-charlotte/
  23. Jung, H. S. (1997). 서양복식문화사 [A history of fashion]. Paju: Kyomunsa.
  24. Jung, J. N., & Yoo, Y. S. (2001). A study on character of religious motive in modern fashion design of 1990's. The Korean Society of Costume, 51(5), 45-59.
  25. Jung, Y.-H. (2002). A study of gorgeous images in modern fashion - Focus on Byzantine Empire in middle ages -. Journal of Fashion Business, 6(5), 48-58.
  26. Kang, R. A., & Lee, H. J. (1999). A study on the symbolic characteristics of medieval heraldry in the modern fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 44, 153-167.
  27. KHM. (n.d.). Cope of the order of golden fleece. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://www.khm.at/en/objectdb/detail/86220/?pid=2338&back=1565&offset=2&lv=listpackages-5572
  28. Kim, H.-Y., Park, S.-K., & Lee, E.-J. (2017). Modernistic reinterpretation of stage costumes in the opera - Focusing on the decorative elements of the Rococo mode -. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 25(4), 458-475. doi:10.7741/rjcc.2017.25.4.458
  29. Kim, J. G., Lim, S. H. & Kim, A. R. (2001). A effect of sociocultural environment on the vicissitudes of headgear - Focused on 19th century in Europe -. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 9(2), 295-307.
  30. Kim, M. J. (2007). Social recognition of apparel in the early period (1510s) of Henry VIII. The Korean Journal of British Studies, 17(17), 109-139. doi:10.22852/kjbs..17.200706.110
  31. Kim, M. J., Choi, H. S., Kim, Y. H., Ha, J. S., Choi, S. H., & Koh, H. J. (2010). 서양패션 멀티콘텐츠 [Western fashion multi-contents]. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
  32. Kim, S. Y., & Lim, Y. J. (2001). A study on contemporary fashion expressed in haute couture. The Korean Society of Costume, 51(6), 147-165.
  33. Ko, H. Z. (2012). The political and social statement through fashion design. The Korean Society of Costume, 62(5), 108-124. doi:10.7233/jksc.2012.62.5.108
  34. Koh, A. R. (2008). 서양의 복식문화와 역사 [A history of fashion]. Paju: Kyomunsa.
  35. Lambert, M. (1846). The handbook of needlework. Retrieved May 1, 2020, from https://books.google.co.kr/books?id=RllHAAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&hl=ko&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false
  36. Lee, J. E. (2019). 귀족의 시대 탐미의 발견 [The discovery of the taste of the aristocracy]. Koyang: Myoohsa.
  37. Lee, K. H. (2009). Transition of embroidery in Europe. The Society of Fashion & Textile Industry, 11(2), 231-241.
  38. Lee, K. M. (2015). A study on the embroidery of the chevron of western-style court dress in the Daehan empire. Society of Korean Traditional Costume, 18(4), 35-48. doi:10.16885/jktc.2015.12.18.4.35
  39. Lee, M. S. (2003). Power and aesthetic images in men's fashion. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 11(2), 177-192.
  40. Lee, S. H. (1996). A study of costume types and background of occurrence in the era of renaissance. The Korean Society of Costume, 30(30), 275-294.
  41. Lee, S. H. (2003). A study on the ornaments in western dress history. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 11(1), 20-46.
  42. Martin, R. H., & Koda, H. (1995). Haute couture. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art.
  43. MCNY. (n.d.). Worth & Mainbocher. Retrieved April 20, 2020, from https://collections.mcny.org/C.aspx?VP3=CMS3&VF=MNYO28_4
  44. MET Museum. (n.d.). Chasuble. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/466660
  45. NPG. (n.d.). Queen Elizabeth 1. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://collectionimages.npg.org.uk/large/mw02074/Queen-Elizabeth-I.jpg
  46. Park, I. J., & Lee, K. H. (2010). A study of the embroidery design properties in fashion collection. The Society of Fashion & Textile Industry, 12(1), 10-20. doi:10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.1.010
  47. Park, J. S. (2010). 패션과 권력 [Fashion and power]. Seoul: Seoul University.
  48. Pastoureau, M., & Simonnet, D. (2020). Les couleurs expliquees en images [Colours explained in pictures] (B. M. Koh, Trans.). Seoul: Artculture. (Original work published 2015)
  49. RSN. (2018). The royal school of needlework book of embroidery. London: Search Press Limited.
  50. Sarah Homfray Embroidery. (2020). Goldwork embroidery threads and metals explained [YouTube Channel]. Retrieved May 1, 2020, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLwQbLUf974
  51. Scott, A. (2008). AZ of goldwork with silk embroidery. London: Country Bumpkin.
  52. Sim, Y. O. (2002). 한국 직물 오천년 [5000 years of Korean textiles]. Seoul: Institute for studies of Ancient Textiles.
  53. Sim, Y. O., & Lee, S, Y. (2013). Study on the form and character of gold thread in weave with supplementary gold wefts.embroidery. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 63(7), 79-93. doi:10.7233/jksc.2013.63.7.079
  54. TRC. (n.d.a). Maaseik embroideries. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/individual-textiles-and-textile-types/religious-vestments-and-other-textiles/maaseik-embroideries
  55. TRC. (n.d.b). St. Cuthbert embroideries. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/individual-textiles-and-textile-types/religious-vestments-and-other-textiles/st-cuthbert-embroideriesvestments-and-other-textiles/maaseik-embroideries
  56. V&A Museum. (n.d.a). The syon cope. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/the-syon-cope
  57. V&A Museum. (n.d.b). Jacket. Retrieved April 27, 2020, from http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O11095/jacket-unknown/
  58. V&A Museum. (n.d.c). The John of thanet panel. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O93385/the-john-of-thanet-panel-panel-from-a-unknown/
  59. V&A Museum. (n.d.d). Mantua. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O13811/mantua-leconte-madame/
  60. Wales Museum. (n.d.). Dress. Retrieved April 7, 2020, from https://museum.wales/collections/online/object/e2ce99c3-462b-3da3-af0a-953e4f94008d/Dress/
  61. WGA. (n.d.). Henry VIII's portrait. Retrieved May 1, 2020, from https://www.wga.hu/html_m/h/holbein/hans_y/1535h/06henry8.html
  62. Yang, S. K., & Cho, Y. Y. (2011). A study on the women political leaders' fashion style for role enactment - Focusing on Yulia Tymoshenko -. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 19(1), 104-118. https://doi.org/10.29049/rjcc.2011.19.1.104