Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회지)

The Korean Society of Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Development of natural sunscreen using plant extracts

식물 추출물을 이용한 천연 자외선 차단제 개발

  • Moon, Ji-Sun (Dept. of Medical Bueauty Care Jungwon University)
  • 문지선 (중원대학교 의료뷰티케어학과)
  • Received : 2020.09.15
  • Accepted : 2020.10.16
  • Published : 2020.10.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

In this study, an experiment was conducted to develop a sunscreen with antioxidant effects by simultaneously investigating the antioxidant and UV protection capabilities of various plant extracts. First, to investigate the UV-blocking ability of 33 kinds of plant extracts, the absorbance spectrum between the UV wavelength of 280 to 400 nm was investigated. Arrowroot, graviola, wheat sprout, sangbaek skin, thorn meal, lacquer, etc. 11 species were selected. The total polyphenol content, total flavonoid content, and DPPH radical scavenging activity of the selected plant extracts are measured to examine the degree of antioxidant activity, and from this, it is a plant extract that has excellent UV protection and antioxidant activity at the same time. The species was selected. A gel-shaped cream is prepared by mixing the selected gold, hops, and licorice extracts in a ratio of 1:1:1, and the UV protection effect of this cream is measured when the cultured cells are irradiated with UV rays. Determined by the method. As a result of the study, it was confirmed that the selected mixture of plant extracts complemented each other in terms of ultraviolet absorption ability and increased cell damage protection effect. Through these results, it was confirmed that it was possible to develop a sunscreen with an antioxidant effect if the antioxidant and sunscreen capabilities of various plant extracts were determined at the same time.

본 연구는 다양한 식물 추출물들이 가지고 있는 항산화 능력과 자외선 차단 능력을 동시에 조사하여 추후, 항산화 효과가 있는 자외선 차단제를 개발하고자 실험을 실시하였다. 먼저 33종의 식물 추출물들의 자외선 차단 능력을 조사하기 위하여 자외선 파장 280~400nm 사이의 흡광도 스펙트럼을 조사하고, 이로부터 우수한 자외선 차단능력을 갖는 것으로 보이는 식물 추출물로 황금, 홉, 녹차, 감초, 방풍, 칡, 그라비올라, 밀싹, 상백피, 가시박, 옻, 등 11종을 선별하였다. 선별된 식물추출물의 총 폴리페놀 함량, 총 플라보노이드 함량, DPPH radical 소거 활성을 측정하여 항산화 활성 정도를 살펴보고, 이로부터 다시 자외선 차단 능력과 항산화 활성이 동시에 우수한 식물 추출물로 황금, 홉, 감초추출물 3종을 선정하였다. 선정된 황금, 홉, 감초추출물을 1:1:1로 혼합하여 겔 형태의 크림을 제조하고, 이 크림이 가지는 자외선 차단 효과를 배양된 세포에 자외선을 조사하였을 때 보여주는 세포 손상 방어 효과를 측정하는 방법으로 결정하였다. 연구 결과, 선정된 식물 추출물의 혼합물은 자외선 흡수 능력에서 상호 보완적이며, 세포 손상 방어 효과도 증가하였음을 확인하였다. 이와 같은 결과를 통하여 다양한 식물 추출물들이 가지고 있는 항산화 능력과 자외선 차단 능력을 동시에 결정할 경우 항산화 효과가 있는 자외선 차단제 개발이 가능함을 확인하였다.

Keywords

References

  1. B. L. Differy, "When should sunscreen be reapplied", J. Am. Acad. Dermatol., Vol.45, No.6, pp.882, (2001). https://doi.org/10.1067/mjd.2001.117385
  2. H. Mukhtar and C. A. Elmets, "Photocarcinogenesis: mechanisms, models and human health implications". J. Photochem. Photobiol, B., Vol.63, No.4, pp.355, (1996). https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1751-1097.1996.tb03039.x
  3. D. D. Villa, A. R. S. Nagatomi, K. Paese, S. Guterres, and T. F. Cestari, "Reapplication improves the amount of sunscreen, not its regularity, under real life conditions", Photochem. Photobiol., Vol.87, No.2, pp.457, (2011). https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1751-1097.2010.00856.x
  4. Y.M. Yoon, S.H. Bae, S.K. An, Y. B. Choe, K. J. Ahn, I, S, An, "Effects of Ultraviolet Radiation on the Skin and Skin Cell Signaling Pathways". Kor. J. Aesthet. Cosmetol. Vol.11, No.3. pp.417-426, (2016).
  5. H. J. Lee, "The effect of red ginseng on ultraviolet b-induced skin damages in mouse". J. of Ginseng Research, Vol.30, No.4, pp.194, (2006). https://doi.org/10.5142/JGR.2006.30.4.194
  6. H. Masaki, "Role of antioxidants in the skin: antiaging effects", J. Dermatol. Sci., Vol.58, No.2, pp.85, (2010). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdermsci.2010.03.003
  7. I. P. Kaur, M. Kapila, and R, "Agrawal, Role of novel delivery systems in developing topical antioxidants as therapeutics to combat photoageing", Ageing. Res. Rev., Vol.6, No.4, pp.271, (2007). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.arr.2007.08.006
  8. J. Krutmann and P. Schroeder, "Role of mitochondria in photoaging of human skin: the defective powerhouse model", J. Investig. Dermatol. Symp. Proc., Vol.14, No.4, pp.301, (2009).
  9. M. Brennan, H. Bhatti, K. C. Nerusu, N. Bhagavathula, S. Kang, G. J. Fisher, J. Varani, and J. J. Voorhees, "Matrix metalloproteinase-1 is the major collagenolytic enzyme responsible for collagen damage in UV-irradiated human skin", Photochem. Photobiol., Vol.78, No.1, pp.43, (2003). https://doi.org/10.1562/0031-8655(2003)078<0043:MMITMC>2.0.CO;2
  10. Z. Gao, K. Huang, X. Yang, and H. Xu, "Free radical scavenging and antioxidant activities of flavonoids extracted from the radix of Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi", Biochim. Biophys. Acta., Vol.1472, No.3, pp.643, (1999). https://doi.org/10.1016/S0304-4165(99)00152-X
  11. H. J. Kim, K. S. Kim, and D. I. Kim, "Inhibitory effects of Lespedeza cuneata ethanol extract on ultraviolet- induced photo aging", J. Korean Soc. Food Sci. Nutr., Vol.41, No.11, pp.1540, (2012). https://doi.org/10.3746/jkfn.2012.41.11.1540
  12. M. F. Naylor and K. C. Farmer, "The case for sunscreens. A review of their use in preventing actinic damage and neoplasia", Arch. Dermatol., Vol.133, No.9, pp.1146, (1997). https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.1997.03890450096012
  13. C. Kim, S. B. Jung, K. H. Lim, M. H. Kang, J. H. Ahn, J. H. Kim, H. Lee, "Development of Multifunctional Natural Sunscreen (BHC-S) Having Sun Screening and Anti-Wrinkle", The Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, Vol.43, No.4 pp. 321-327, (2017).
  14. R. P. Stokesa and B. L. Diffey, "in vitro assay of high SPF sunscreens", J, Soc. Cosmet, Chem., Vol.48, No.4, pp.289, (1997).
  15. D. L. Damian, G. M. Halliday, and R. Stc Barnetson, "Sun protection factor measurement of sunscreens is dependent on minimal erythema dose", Br. J. Dermatol., Vol.14, No.3, pp. 502, (1999).
  16. I. K. "sato A mechanism of UVA induced pigmentation and UVA protection", SOFW J., Vol.133, No.7, pp.12, (2007).
  17. Ichihashi M, Ueda M, Budiyanto A, Bito T, Oka M, Fukunaga M, Tsuru K and Horikawa T, "UV-induced skin damage". Toxicol. Vol.189, No.1, pp.21-39, (2003). https://doi.org/10.1016/S0300-483X(03)00150-1
  18. C. I. Park, T. J. Kang, S. J. Lee, "Process System Engineering, Transport Phenomena, Process Safety : Effects of Rheological Properties of Emulsions Having Sun Screening Agent on Sun Protection Efficacy", The Korean journal of chemical engineering, Vol.41, No.5 pp.598-603, (2003).
  19. Radava R. Korac, Kapil M. Khambholja, "Potential of herbs in skin protection from ultraviolet radiation". Pharmacognosy Reviews. Vol.5, No.10 pp.164-173, (2011). https://doi.org/10.4103/0973-7847.91114
  20. Buso, Piergiacomo, et al. "Guidelines for the development of herbal-based sunscreen." Herbal Medicine. IntechOpen, (2017).
  21. Priyanka, S., et al, "A pilot study on sun protection factor of plant extracts: an observational study." Asian. J. Pharm. Clin. Res., Vol.11 pp.67-71, (2018).
  22. Ahmady, A., Amini, M. H., Zhakfar, A. M., Babak, G., & Sediqi, M. N, "Sun Protective Potential and Physical Stability of Herbal Sunscreen Developed from Afghan Medicinal Plants". Turkish Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Vol.17, No.3, pp.285, (2020). https://doi.org/10.4274/tjps.galenos.2019.15428
  23. Jangde, R., & Daharwal, S. J, "Herbal sunscreen: An overview. Research Journal of Topical and Cosmetic". Sciences, Vol.2, No.2, pp.35-39, (2011).
  24. Mohammad AE, Reza E, Masoumeh K, Mahdieh Ghaffarloo MS, Jamshid Yazdani C, "Correlation between Sun Protection Factor and Antioxidant Activity, Phenol and Flavonoid Contents of some Medicinal Plants". Iranian Journal of Pharmaceutical Research, Vol.13, No.3, pp1041-1047, (2014).
  25. Folin O, Denis W, "On phosphotungstic-phosphomolybdic compounds as color reagents". The Journal of Biological Chemistry, Vol.12, No.2, pp.239-243 (1912). https://doi.org/10.1016/S0021-9258(18)88697-5
  26. Moreno MI, Isla MI, Sampietro AR, Vattuone MA, "Comparison of the free radical-scavenging activity of propolis from several regions of Argentina." Journal of Ethnopharmacology, Vol.71, No.1, pp.109-114, (2000). https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-8741(99)00189-0
  27. Blois MS, "Antioxidant determinations by the use of a stable free radical". Nature, Vol.181, No.4617, pp.1199-1200, (1958). https://doi.org/10.1038/1811199a0
  28. Sebastien C, Calliste CA, Mazeron MC, Hantz S, Duroux JL, Rawlison WD, Poly MC, Alain S. Eight "flavonoids and their potential as inhibitors of human cytomegalovirus replication". Antivi. Reserch,. Vol.96, No.2, pp.181-186, (2012). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.antiviral.2012.09.010
  29. Kyung-dong Kim, Yong-doo Lee, Seong-soon Park, Sung-hwa Youn, Seok-hyun Lee, "The effect and stability of plant extract ingredient as uv absorber". J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, Vol.26, No.1, pp.41-58, (2000).
  30. Sang Mi An, Seung Jin Lee, Kwon Moo Park, Jae Sook Koh, Yong Chool Boo, "Effects of Plant Extract containing Creams on UVB Radiation-induced Inflammatory Responses in Mice". J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, Vol.36, No.4, pp.271-280, (2010).
  31. Kyung-dong Kim, Yong-doo Lee, Seong-soon Park, Sung-hwa Youn, Seok-hyun Lee, "The effect and stability of plant extract ingredient as uv absorber." J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, Vol.26, No.1, pp.41-58, (2000).
  32. Korac, R. R., & Khambholja, K. M, "Potential of herbs in skin protection from ultraviolet radiation". Pharmacognosy reviews, Vol.5, No.10, pp.164, (2011). https://doi.org/10.4103/0973-7847.91114
  33. Yoon, Y. Bae, S. An, S. Choe, Y. B. Ahn, K. J. & An, I. S, "Effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin and skin cell signaling pathways". Kor. J. Aesthet Cosmetol, Vol.11, No.3, pp.417-426, (2013).
  34. Choi, S. Y., Cho, H. S., & Sung, N. J, "The antioxidative and nitrite scavenging ability of solvent extracts from wild grape (Vitis coignetiea) skin". Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, Vol.35, No.8, pp.961-966, (2006). https://doi.org/10.3746/jkfn.2006.35.8.961
  35. Cho EK, Gal SW, Choi YJ, "Antioxidative activity and angiotensin converting enzyme inhibitory activity of fermented medical plants(DeulBit) and its modulatory effects of nitric oxide production". J. Appl. Biol. Chem, Vol.53, No.2, pp.91-98, (2010). https://doi.org/10.3839/jabc.2010.017
  36. V. Bondet, W. Brand-Williams and C. Berset, "Kinetics and mechanisms of antiocidant activity using the DPPH free radical method", LWT-Food Sci. Technol., Vol.30, pp.609-615, (1997). https://doi.org/10.1006/fstl.1997.0240
  37. Hupel, M., Poupart, N., & Gall, E. A, "Development of a new in vitro method to evaluate the photoprotective sunscreen activity of plant extracts against high UV-B radiation". Talanta, Vol.86, pp.362-371, (2011). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.talanta.2011.09.029
  38. Radice, M., Manfredini, S., Ziosi, P., Dissette, V., Buso, P., Fallacara, A., & Vertuani, S, "Herbal extracts, lichens and biomolecules as natural photo-protection alternatives to synthetic UV filters". A systematic review. Fitoterapia, Vol.114, pp.144-162, (2016). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.fitote.2016.09.003
  39. Donglikar, M. M., & Deore, S. L, "Development and evaluation of herbal sunscreen". Pharmacognosy Journal, Vol.9, No.1, (2017).

Cited by

  1. A Study on the Trends of the Natural UV Protection Materials Related to Skin Beauty vol.38, pp.1, 2021, https://doi.org/10.12925/jkocs.2021.38.1.107