Abstract
In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of Platycarya strobilacea bark extracts. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea was in the order: 50% ethanol extract ($6.75{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($6.62{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($4.15{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was ethyl acetate fraction (OSC50, $0.56{\mu}g/mL$) < 50% ethanol extract ($0.02{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($0.01{\mu}g/mL$). The deglycosylated aglycone fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethanol extract (50%) suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 717.27 min at $10{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of Platycarya strobilacea extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. The inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract ($243.98{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($153.87{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($137.53{\mu}g/mL$). Also, The inhibitory effect of elastase ($IC_{50}$) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract ($31.01{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($14.42{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($1.48{\mu}g/mL$). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of Platycarya strobilacea extracts was formulated. The skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, and the whitening effects were investigated after topical application of the cream. The skin hydration of cream containing extract was increased by $2{\sim}8%$ than the placebo cream, transepidermal water loss was decreased. The cream containing extract suppressed the melanogenesis of skin by 9.55% than the placebo cream. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by anti-oxidative activity and protect cellular membranes against ROS. The inhibitory effect on elastase and tyrosinase, and the increase of skin hydration and the whitening effect of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.
본 연구에서는 굴피나무 수피 추출물의 항산화, 미백 및 주름생성억제에 관한 효과를 측정하였다. 추출물의 free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) 소거활성($FSC_{50}$)은 50% 에탄올 추출물($6.75{\mu}g/mL$) < 당을 제거시킨 aglycone 분획(6.62) < ethyl acetate 분획(4.15) 순으로 증가하였다. Luminol-의존성 화학발광법을 이용한 $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ 계에서 생성된 활성산소종(reactive oxygen species, ROS)에 대한 총항산화능은 ethyl acetate 분획($OSC_{50}$, $0.56{\mu}g/mL$) < 50% 에탄올 추출물(0.02) < 당을 제거시킨 aglycone 분획(0.01) 순으로 당을 제거시킨 aglycone 분획에서 가장 큰 활성을 나타내었다. 굴피나무 추출물에 대하여 rose-bengal로 증감된 사람 적혈구의 광용혈에 대한 보호효과를 조사하였다. 50% 에탄올 추출물의 경우 농도 의존적($1{\sim}50{\mu}g/mL$)으로 광용혈을 억제하였다. 특히 ethyl acetate 분획은 $10{\mu}g/mL$ 농도에서 ${\tau}_{50}$이 717.27 min으로 매우 큰 세포보호 활성을 나타내었다. 미백 및 주름억제 효과측정으로는 각각 tyrosinase와 elastase의 활성 저해 효과를 측정하였다. Tyrosinase의 활성 저해 효과($IC_{50}$)는 50% 에탄올 추출물 ($243.98{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate 분획(153.87) < 당을 제거시킨 aglycone 분획(137.53) 순으로 나타났고, elastase의 활성 저해 효과($IC_{50}$)도 50% 에탄올 추출물($31.01{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate 분획(14.42) < 당을 제거시킨 aglycone 분획(1.48) 순으로, aglycone 분획이 매우 큰 활성 저해 활성을 나타내었다. 또한 굴피나무 추출물 중 ethyl acetate 분획을 함유하는 크림을 제조하고, 이를 피부에 도포한 후, 피부 수분 보유량, 경표피 수분 손실량 그리고 미백효과를 측정하였다. 추출물 함유 크림은 대조군(placebo)보다 수분 보유량을 $2{\sim}8%$ 증가시켰고, 경표피 수분 손실량은 감소시켰다. 또한 추출물 함유 크림은 대조군에 비해 멜라닌 생성을 9.55% 감소시켰다. 이상의 결과들은 굴피나무 추출물이 항산화 활성과 더불어 ROS에 대항하여 세포막을 보호함으로써 생체계, 특히 태양 자외선에 노출된 피부에서 항산화제로서 작용할 수 있음을 가리키며, tyrosinase 및 elastase의 활성 저해 효과와 이를 통한 인체 시험의 결과로부터 미백 기능성 화장품 원료로서 응용 가능성이 있음을 시사한다.
