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Skin Whitening and Anti-Wrinkle Effects of Extract from Jubak of Oriental Herbal Liquor

한방 발효주 주박 추출물의 미백 및 피부 주름 개선 효과

  • Lee, Su-Min (Research Laboratories, Kooksoondang Brewery Co., Ltd.) ;
  • Lee, Sang-Jin (Research Laboratories, Kooksoondang Brewery Co., Ltd.) ;
  • Kwon, Yi-Young (Research Laboratories, Kooksoondang Brewery Co., Ltd.) ;
  • Baek, Sang-Hoon (Research Laboratories, Kooksoondang Brewery Co., Ltd.) ;
  • Kim, Jong-Sik (Department of Biological Sciences, Andong National University) ;
  • Sohn, Ho-Yong (Department of Food and Nutrition, Andong National University) ;
  • Shin, Woo-Chang (Research Laboratories, Kooksoondang Brewery Co., Ltd.)
  • Received : 2014.06.09
  • Accepted : 2014.10.15
  • Published : 2014.11.30

Abstract

Oriental herbal liquor (Yakju) is a type of Korean traditional alcoholic beverage that uses Nuruk and oriental herbs for fermentation. The purpose of this study was to develop cosmetic ingredients using Jubak, which is a by-product of alcoholic fermentation of oriental herbal liquor. To investigate antioxidant, whitening, and anti-aging effects of Jubak, we prepared extract of Jubak and its solvent fractions. Ethyl acetate fraction (KSD E4-3) showed the most prominent free radical [1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH)] scavenging activity ($SC_{50}$: 0.75 mg/mL). KSD E4-3 significantly inhibited in vitro mushroom tyrosinase activity ($IC_{50}$: 0.82 mg/mL) and reduced the melanin contents in mouse melanoma melanocyte, B16F10 cells. KSD E4-3 down-regulated protein expression of tyrosinase related proteins (TRP)-1, -2, which play key roles in melanogenesis. For anti-aging effects, inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase (MMPs) expression was evaluated using human keratinocyte, HaCaT cells. Treatment of HaCaT cells with KSD E4-3 reduced expression of MMP-1, -2, -9 and inhibited proteolytic activities of MMP-2, -9. These results suggest that KSD E4-3 induces down-regulation of cellular melanogenesis and protects against photoaging induced by UVB-induced damage. Thus KSD E4-3 could potentially be a valuable cosmetic ingredient.

본 연구에서는 한방 발효주 주박의 피부 생리 기능 활성을 알아보기 위해 주박 추출물 및 분획물을 준비하고 항산화, 미백 및 주름 개선 효과를 조사하였다. 그 중 한방 발효주 주박의 에틸아세테이트 분획물(KSD E4-3)이 가장 우수한 항산화 효과를 나타내었으며 이는 다양한 약재의 발효에 의한 효과로 사료된다. KSD E4-3은 tyrosinase 활성 억제 및 tyrosine을 기질로 melanin이 형성되는 pathway에 관여하는 주요한 인자인 TRP-1과 TRP-2를 저해하는 작용 기전을 통해 피부 색소침착의 주요 원인 물질인 melanin 생합성을 농도 의존적으로 저해하는 것을 확인하였다. 또한 KSD E4-3은 피부의 keratinocyte가 생성, 분비하는 MMP-1, -2, -9의 발현을 억제하여 UV 조사에 의한 피부 광노화에 따른 피부 주름 생성을 억제할 수 있음을 확인하였다. 이상의 결과를 종합하면 한방 발효주 주박에서 추출한 KSD E4-3은 피부 미백 및 주름 개선에 우수한 효과를 나타내고 있으므로 기능성 화장품의 주요한 소재로 이용 가치가 높을 것으로 사료된다.

Keywords

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