Journal of Fashion Business (패션비즈니스)

The Korean Society of Fashion Business (한국패션비즈니스학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Brassiere Pattern Designed to Fit into the Breast Shapes -based on ESMOD pattern-

유방유형별 절개형 브래지어 패턴 설계 -에스모드브라 패턴법을 기초로-

  • Min, You-Suk (Department of Fashion Design Information, Chungbuk National University) ;
  • Kweon, Soo-ae (Department of Fashion Design Information, Chungbuk National University) ;
  • Sohn, Boo-hyun (Department of Fashion Design Information, Chungbuk National University)
  • 민유숙 (충북대학교 패션디자인정보학과) ;
  • 권수애 (충북대학교 패션디자인정보학과) ;
  • 손부현 (충북대학교 패션디자인정보학과)
  • Received : 2016.06.13
  • Accepted : 2016.08.23
  • Published : 2016.09.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to develop brassiere pattern designed to fit the breast shapes based on ESMOD pattern. It has three quarters cup round shape and also consists of three parts; upper cup, lower cup, and wings. Breast types are classified into five shapes; ideal breast, flat breast, upper developed breast, lower developed breast, and projecting breast. Two subjects for each breast type wore the brassiere, and they evaluated the appearance and wearing twice. Type I for research pattern designed to fit into the breast shape reflecting details of breast size were assessed as superior to the divided commercial type. However, wings' tightness of Type I for research pattern brassiere was high. Thus, to improve wearing satisfaction, extra was added to wing. Based on the results of wearing experiments of Type I for research, we adjusted and modified Type II for research pattern. Subsequently, its appearance and wearing were evaluated, in order to be improved. For upper developed breast pattern, we extended the length of lower part to balance upper and lower part, as the upper part was somewhat long. The lower developed breast has the closest feature to the ideal breast, suggestive that implies it does not require much improvement Projecting breast pattern has minimal space in the lower part, so we added the support to lift them to be similar to the ideal breasts. For all the breast shapes, we reduced the wings' tightness from 8% to 7% so that we could extend the length of the wings.

Keywords

References

  1. Cha, S. J. & Sohn, H. S. (2010). The study on the breast types and characteristics of Chinese female adults. (Ver. 2) -Focused on the female college students in Shanghai-. Journal of fashion business, 14(1), 57-75.
  2. Cho, E. J. & Sohn, H. S. (2001). A study on the poor breast shapes for 20s a women. Journal of the Costume Culture 9(1), 11-18.
  3. Choi, J. Y. (2011). Physiological resoenses and subjective sensations to brassiere by breast types. (Unpublished master's thesis). Chungbuk National University, Chungbuk, Korea.
  4. Khang, Y. S. (1991). Study on the functional brassiere development. (Unpublished master's thesis). Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  5. Kim, K. H., Kim, M. Y., & Kim, H. S. (2009). A study on fitness and pattern analysis in brassiere wearing by brand. Journal of Korean Knit Design, 7(1), 76-88.
  6. Kim, M. Y. (2007). A study on the design of the brassiere by breast types in 30's females. (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Sungshin women's University, Seoul, Korea.
  7. Kim, Y. S. (1999). A study on the development of brassiere pattern for elderly women. (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Sookmyung women's University, Seoul, Korea.
  8. Kim, J. H. & Yi, K. H. (2001). A study on the wearing effect and wearing comfort of brassiere on the market. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 25(8), 1432-1443.
  9. Kweon S. A. & Sohn, B. H. (2013) Analysis on Classification of Breast Types in Twenties-aged Women. Proceedings of 2013 International Conference on Korean Society of Beauty and Arts (pp.38-42). Cheongju: The Society of Beauty and Arts.
  10. Lee, H. S. (2007). A study for the functional improvement of sports brassieres. (Unpublished master's thesis). Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  11. Lee, H. Y. (2007). Evaluation of commercial mould brassieres for women with poor breasts. Journal of Human Ecology, 16(6), 1211-1221. https://doi.org/10.5934/KJHE.2007.16.6.1211
  12. Lee, M. J. (2002). A study on clothing pressure in brassiere. (Unpublished master's thesis). Daejeon University, Chungnam, Korea.
  13. Lim, J. Y. (2003). Classification of size system of brassiere according to the breast types for improvement of the wearing comfort. Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association, 41(6), 119-129.
  14. Lim, J. Y. (2004) A survey on the wearing conditions for the improvement of wearing comfort of brassiere. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 6(4), 455-460.
  15. Oh, S. Y., Choi, H. S., & Yi, K. H. (2006). A survey on the actual wearing condition for the improvement of fit of brassiere. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 30(9/10), 1378-1388.
  16. Pan, H. W., Choi, J. M., Kweon, S. A. & Sohn, B. H. (2009). A study on the wearing and preferences of brassiere for female college students. Journal of Human Ecology, 18(5), 1093-1101. https://doi.org/10.5934/KJHE.2009.18.5.1093
  17. Park, E. M. & Sohn, H. S. (2001). A study on the development of basic brassiere pattern for adult women -focusing on size 75A-. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 25(4), 719-730.
  18. Park, E. M. & Im, S. (2003). A study on the functional pattern design for brassiere - focusing on large-breasted women -. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 24(3/4), 407-417.
  19. Park, E. M. & Sohn, H. S. (2000). A study on the establishment of brassiere sizing system for adult Women, Journal of Fashion business, 4(1), 45-58.
  20. Park, Y. S. & Jang, E. Y. (2008). Development of the basic brassiere pattern - focusing on 75A-. Journal of fashion business, 12(1), 109-119.
  21. Sohn, B. H. & Kweon, S. A. (2013). Study on desirable breast type of women in their twenties based on the ratio of breast in works of art and cup design according to breast type. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 37(3), 280-291. https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2013.37.3.280
  22. Sohn, H. S. & Koh, T. H. (2000). A study on the obese breast shape of 20's women. Journal of Costume Culture, 8(2), 282-292.
  23. Suh, C. Y. (2010). Comparative pattern analysis and the fitness evaluation of brassieres. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 34(4), 673-685. https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.4.673

Cited by

  1. 시판 유방 확대 수술 환자용 브래지어의 착의 평가 vol.42, pp.5, 2016, https://doi.org/10.5850/jksct.2018.42.5.737
  2. 3차원 쉐이핑 기술을 활용한 스포츠 브래지어 개발 vol.21, pp.4, 2016, https://doi.org/10.5805/sfti.2019.21.4.480
  3. 국내 브래지어 특허기술동향 분석 vol.44, pp.2, 2020, https://doi.org/10.5850/jksct.2020.44.2.321
  4. 3차원 형상 분석을 통한 브래지어 하컵 패턴의 원리 분석 vol.45, pp.1, 2016, https://doi.org/10.5850/jksct.2021.45.1.94