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Skin lightening effect of fermented Panax ginseng extract

자연삼 발효 추출물의 미백 활성에 대한 연구

  • Lee, Hyosung (School of Food and Pharmaceutical Science & Engineering, Seowon University)
  • 이효성 (서원대학교 제약식품공학부)
  • Received : 2018.12.21
  • Accepted : 2019.02.20
  • Published : 2019.02.28

Abstract

Panax ginseng is known for various pharmacological activities mainly due to saponins. Since minor saponins, generated by the decomposition of major saponins, generally exert higher activities than major saponins, the fermentation may increase the minor saponin contents in ginseng products. In this study, we tested fermented ginseng extract whether or not provide a safe cosmetic ingredient for whitening purpose. In this regard, fermented Ginseng extract was prepared and evaluated the inhibitory activity toward tyrosinase and the melanin synthesis suppression. The safety was tested via cell viability and toxicity test. The skin lightening effect was also evaluated by clinical study. The fermented Ginseng extract exerted higher activities in tyrosine inhibition and in suppressing melanin synthesis compared to Kojic acid and arbutin. In the clinical test, skin lightening effecte of the sample was clearly higher than vehicle or Vitamin C. We thus concluded that the fermented Ginseng extract may provide a safe cosmetic ingredient for skin lightening purpose.

인삼은 다양한 약리학적 활성을 나타내며 이러한 활성은 사포닌에 기인한 것으로 알려져 있다. 사포닌 중 주사포닌이 분해된 부사포닌이 주사포닌보다 높은 활성을 나타내며 부사포닌의 함량은 발효를 통하여 증가시킬 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 인삼의 발효 추출물의 미백 활성을 측정하여 화장품 원료로서의 개발 가능성을 타진하고자 하였다. 자연삼을 발효하고 추출물을 제조하였고 멜라닌 합성효소에 대한 저해 활성과 세포 내 멜라닌 합성 억제능을 평가하였다. 아울러 세포독성을 측정하여 안전성을 평가하였고 임상시험을 통하여 자외선에 의한 색소침착 억제능을 평가하였다. 기존 미백 원료인 Kojic acid나 Arbutin과 비교하여 자연삼 발효 추출물은 멜라닌 합성 억제능이 더 높은 것으로 측정되었고 세포 독성도 낮게 나타났으며 임상평가를 통하여 자외선에 의한 색소침착도 억제하는 것으로 나타났다. 본 연구는 천연물의 세포생물학과 임상학적 융합연구이며 이를 통하여 개발된 자연삼 발효 추출물은 안전하며 우수한 미백효과를 가지는 미백 화장품 원료로 평가된다.

Keywords

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Fig. 1. Inhibitory activity of fermented Ginseng extract on cell-free tyrosinase (Error bar: S. D., Student’s paired t-test, *p < 0.05 versus control, n = 3).

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Fig. 2. Inhibitory activity of fermented Ginseng extract on cellular tyrosinase (Error bar: S. D., Student’s paired t-test, *p < 0.05 versus control, n = 3).

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Fig. 3. Inhibitory activity of fermented Ginseng extract on melanin synthesis in melanoma cells (Error bar: S. D., Student’s paired t-test, *p < 0.05 versus arbutin, n = 3).

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Fig. 4. Viability of RAW264.7 cells upon treatment of fermented Ginseng extract.

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Fig. 5. Viabilities of RBL-2H3 cells and J774A1 cells upon treatment of fermented Ginseng extract.

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Fig. 6. Toxicity of fermented Ginseng extract on RAW264.7 cells.

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Fig. 7. Whitening index (L value) of fetmented ginseng extract (t-test, *p < 0.05 versus vehicle, n = 10).

Table 1. Formulation for the assessment of whitening effect.

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