Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers (한국해안·해양공학회논문집)

Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers (한국해안·해양공학회)
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Grand Circulation Process of Beach Cusp and its Seasonal Variation at the Mang-Bang Beach from the Perspective of Trapped Mode Edge Waves as the Driving Mechanism of Beach Cusp Formation

맹방해안에서 관측되는 Beach Cusp의 일 년에 걸친 대순환 과정과 계절별 특성 - 여러 생성기작 중 포획모드 Edge Waves를 중심으로

  • Cho, Yong Jun (Department of Civil Engineering, University of Seoul)
  • 조용준 (서울시립대학교 토목공학과)
  • Received : 2019.09.07
  • Accepted : 2019.10.21
  • Published : 2019.10.31
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Abstract

Using the measured data of waves and shore-line, we reviewed the grand circulation process and seasonal variation of beach cusp at the Mang-Bang beach from the perspective of trapped mode Edge waves known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp. In order to track the temporal and spatial variation trends of beach cusp, we quantify the beach cusp in terms of its wave length and amplitude detected by threshold crossing method. In doing so, we also utilize the spectral analysis method and its associated spectral mean sand wave number. From repeated period of convergence and ensuing splitting of sand waves detected from the yearly time series of spectral mean sand wave number of beach cusp, it is shown that the grand circulation process of beach cusp at Mang-Bang beach are occurring twice from 2017. 4. 26 to 2018. 4. 20. For the case of beach area, it increased by $14,142m^2$ during this period, and the shore-line advanced by 18 m at the northen and southern parts of the Mang-Bang beach whereas the shore-line advanced by 2.4 m at the central parts of Mang-Bang beach. It is also worthy of note that the beach area rapidly increased by $30,345m^2$ from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22. which can be attributed to the nature of coming waves. During this period, mild swells of long period were prevailing, and their angle of attack were next to zero. These characteristics of waves imply that the main transport mode of sediment would be the cross-shore. Considering the facts that self-healing capacity of natural beaches is realized via the cross-shore sediment once temporarily eroded. it can be easily deduced that the sediment carried by the boundary layer streaming toward the shore under mild swells which normally incident toward the Mang-Bang beach makes the beach area rapidly increase from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22.

파랑관측 자료와 실측된 해안선 위치를 활용하여 맹방해안에 형성되는 beach cusp의 일 년에 걸친 대순환과정과 계절별 특성을 포획모드 Edge waves와 beach cusp의 인과 관계를 중심으로 살펴보았다. 맹방표사 계에 출현하는 beach cusp의 시공을 통한 변화 추이를 가늠하기 위해 threshold 상향통과 법으로 특정된 각 beach cusp의 파장과 진폭을 활용하여 정량화하였으며, 스펙트럼 해석의 경우에는 spectral mean sand wave number를 도입하여 정량화하였다. Spectral mean sand wave number의 시계열자료로부터 sand wave의 융합과 분할이 반복되는 주기를 산출하는 경우 beach cusp의 대순환과정은 일 년에 두 번에 걸쳐 진행되는 것으로 보인다. 해빈면적의 경우 해빈 대순환 과정이 완성되는 일 년을 기준으로 $14,142m^2$ 정도 증가하였으며, quadratic 회귀 분석하여 얻은 평균 해안선의 경우 맹방해안 남단과 북단에서는 18 m, 맹방해안 중앙부에서는 2.4 m 내외로 전진하였다. 해빈면적은 2017.11.26부터 2017.12.22 사이에 $30,345m^2$ 내외로 급속하게 증가하였으며, 이렇게 급속한 해빈면적 증가는 상당히 예외적인 것으로 11월 26부터 12월 22일 사이에 맹방해안으로 내습한 파랑의 성격에 기인하는 것으로 판단된다. 전술한 기간은 온화한 장주기 너울이 지배적이며, 대부분의 파랑이 영의 영각에 가깝게 맹방해안으로 내습한다. 이러한 파랑조건은 주 표사 이송모드가 횡단 표사라는 것을 의미하며 자연 해빈의 자기 치유능력이 횡단 표사를 통해 구현된다는 사실을 상기하면 전술한 해빈면적의 급속한 증가는 영의 영각으로 진입하는 파랑의 경계층 streaming에 의해 해안방향으로 회귀되는 표사가 누적되어 발생하는 것으로 판단된다.

Keywords

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